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PRA – KASHI: Silk, Gold and Silver from the City of Light
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Introduction


This exhibition has at its core 47 contemporary textiles woven at the workshop ASHA, in Varanasi. These include garments, shawls, textile panels, fabric lengths and borders representing the apogee of silk-weaving on the Indian drawloom over a period of 25 years (1993-2019). They are the product of a unique contemporary experiment when all similar historic centres of drawloom production worldwide (Mughal India, 1526 – 1857; Safavid Iran, 1501 – 1722; and Ottoman Turkey, 1299 – 1922) have fallen silent.


This exhibition charts the evolution of ASHA’s design repertoire from floral motifs to animal images, and on to the human figure, the last being exhibited here for the very first time. Every fresh departure was the result of enhanced technical innovations, which meant greater complexity across multiple processes. The display represents the full range of luxury silks that were manufactured historically from the beginning of the first millennium using the Taquete-Samite, Lampas, Extended Samite, Brocaded Double-Weave, Damask, Velvet and Voided Velvet weaving techniques.


This exhibition is supplemented with historic examples from the collection of the National Museum, which help connect extant examples with allied traditions of the past. Their contextual presence connects and separates India’s unparalleled textile traditions across multiple media, formats and materials. Accompanying paintings and jewellery further highlight our understanding that the material culture of the historic past was not experienced in isolation but as a continuity of design, skill and aesthetics across various media.


The contemporary textiles are, in the end, the creation of a dedicated group of weavers, working together under the aegis of a traditional karkhana (workshop), sustained and made possible by enlightened patrons. The weavers were closely supervised in their use of the finest and most appropriate raw materials, sensitive draftsmanship and design, choice of fabric structure and careful execution, by technical virtuoso, Rahul Jain. Their work is an ode to an unbroken historical continuum preserving and regenerating some of the most refined human skill-sets from the Indian subcontinent.


- Pramod Kumar KG





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